- Make sure hands are kept safely away from the two contact areas on the rod
- Keep fingers in between the collars of the weight to protect them from impact
- Safety reminders are noted by an
 throughout the instructions
This process can be performed with the snowmobile either on its side or with the rear end suspended. If the rear end is lifted, ensure that the snowmobile is firmly balanced on the ground to keep the sled from shifting during maintenance. If you prefer not to lift the rear end, the snowmobile can be placed on its side. Place a protective tarp on the floor first, and then lift the sled from the front trailing arm of the ski. Be careful not to damage the side mirrors- make sure all fluid reservoir (gas, oil etc) caps are on tight!
Lift and secure rear end of snowmobile.
After the rear end is safely suspended or turned on its side, remove the slider retaining screw on each rail (2). The screw is accessed through a sprocket hole near the forward end of the suspension rail.
Note: Some snowmobiles have a nut that rests in a slot in the suspension rail. When loosening the screw, make sure this nut does not fall off, as it can be easily lost. Replacement screws are available from us if needed.
Load one of the specially designed self-tapping tips into the slotted end of the EZ-Slider tool rod.
Lower the handle end of tool and rest it on the ground.Make sure your fingers are out of the way when lowering the rod in the event that the hammer weight shifts! Keep the cotter pin in place to help secure hammer weight.
Place the hex head of the self-tapping tips into the slot with the threaded shank pointing straight up.Be careful when handling the tips, as their points are extremely sharp!
Place the nose cone over the shank of the tip so that the larger open end of nose cone is facing the threaded /slotted end of the tool rod.
Thread the nose cone onto the tool rod by hand turning the nose cone clockwise for 2 turns.
Ensuring that the hex head of the tip remains flush in the slot of the tool rod, continue tightening with a 5/8” hex wrench until the nose cone is firmly tightened, captivating the tip. Be sure to keep the tip straight while tightening.
From the rear of the snowmobile look through the sprocket hole of the track that is aligned with the suspension rail. It is necessary for these to be aligned so that the EZ-SLIDER tool will be able to pull the slider through this opening. If this is not aligned, slightly rotate the track as necessary to obtain exact horizontal alignment.
Note: Snowmobiles with small track windows such as Ski-Doo are much easier to service if you trim one set of windows by 1/8” per side with a razor knife. This allows the new slider enough clearance to be easily installed later.
After cutting the window to the proper width use a flame to sear the fibers into the rubber of the track. A propane torch, soldering iron or lighter will work. Make sure you sear the track and not your fingers!
Before performing Step 11, ensure that the snowmobile has not shifted
Carefully insert the self-tapping tip end of the EZ-Slider tool through the rear sprocket hole that is aligned with the slider.
Position the sharp point so that it is touching the end of the slider. Make sure that the point is positioned so that it will not contact the aluminum suspension rail.
Center the tip point in the slider end.
Note: On extremely worn sliders, or those with an extreme bevel, it may be necessary to tap the tip into an area of the slider that is not in the wear path such as, the top, or side, without contacting the aluminum rail. (See picture above) If you have problems tapping into this area try:
Remove the nose cone from the tool
Slide an ez-slider self-tapping tip through the nose cone.
Use a cordless screwdriver with a ¼” nut driver to thread the tip into the slider. Make sure to have the nose cone on.
On sliders with an extreme bevel, angle the tip so that it initially is perpendicular to the beveled edge. Once the tip begins to tap in, modify the angle of the tip to parallel with the rail and continue threading the tip fully in.
Reattach the nose cone to the threaded end of the tool rod. (Proceed to step 14, but skip steps 15 & 16)
Remove the cotter pin from the tool rod so that hammer weight can move.
Lightly slide the Hammer weight forward until it makes contact with the Drive Pin. The impact from sliding the weight will set the tip’s point into the slider. (light force is all that is needed!)
While pushing forward, rotate the Handle Pin clockwise 7 full turns. Tip will drill and tap its own hole into the slider. Our tips will hold 1300 pounds of pull force when fully threaded in. (no visible threads).
Note: Make sure that as you turn the handle, the tool is kept parallel with the suspension rail. This will keep the tip from contacting the aluminum suspension rail.
After the tip is firmly tapped into the plastic, the next step is to pull it off of the suspension rail.
Check placement of hands to make sure they are away from the impact areas on the tool rod. Have one hand on the handle pin, and apply a slight pull-force as you perform step 17.
Firmly slide the Hammer weight away from the rear end of the snowmobile until contact is made with the Tool Rod Collar.
Gently slide the weight forward and stop before making contact with the Tool Rod Drive Pin.
Repeat Steps 17 & 18 until the rear end of the slider reaches track sprocket hole opening.
Re-check the alignment of the track with the suspension rail as the slider end reaches the sprocket hole opening. Make any minor adjustments needed, if any, to ensure alignment.
Note: If a track adjustment is necessary, do not set the tool down on the floor, with the tip engaged, as they will bend. Use a toolbox, or bucket, to hold the tool parallel to the rail as you make the track adjustment.
Continue sliding the Hammer weight (Step 17 above) until the slider end penetrates the sprocket hole opening and is pulled completely off of the rail. Typically, this will take 10 or more impacts.
Hold the end of slider where the tip is engaged. Rotate the Tool Rod Handle Pin counter clockwise until the tip is unthreaded from the plastic slider.
Return to step 11and repeat for second slider.
Now is a good time to check your rails for any nicks or gouges. Nicks in the rails will make it more difficult to install your new slider. Use a file or sand paper to smooth any rough surfaces.
Note: It may be necessary to cut your new sliders to length before installation.
Take the old slider and lay it on top of the new, positioning it so that the through holes are both on the same end.
Slide a screwdriver though the holes to keep them aligned and prevent you from cutting the wrong end!
Use a hack saw to cut both new sliders to the proper length. Choose a length that will fully cover the rail without being so long that it interferes with the track. Save the cut off remnant for later use.
Note: Many new sliders are being sold already cut to length with a beveled end. The bevel gives clearance when the snowmobile is driven in reverse. Using the saw cut off the beveled end off leaving a squared off end (approx. 1/4 - 1/2 inch will be enough to remove bevel). This will make the next removal much easier.
Apply lubricant onto both sliders where they mate with the aluminum suspension rails to aid installation below. Also lubricate the outside if there is any friction with the side of the track window.
Note: It is important to insert the end of the slider, with the hole, through the same sprocket opening used to remove the slider. (The retaining screw fastens the slider to the rail through this hole)
Position the slider end, with the hole, onto the rear most end of the suspension rail. Push forward and wiggle, until the slider lines up with the aluminum rail and begins to slide on.
Using a hammer, tap the slider from the opposite end. Be sure to watch the slider as it slides on to the rail to make sure that it is properly seated on the rail as it is pushed forward. Continue tapping until the through hole is properly aligned with mating slider retaining screw hole in the rail.
Note: On some models you may need to use the slider remnant from step 27 as an extension for the final few taps. Once the slider end is inside the track it is no longer accessible with the hammer.
Place the slider retaining screw into the through hole of the slider until it makes contact with the mating nut located on the suspension rail. (Some models may have a blind hole with no nut.)
Lightly tighten the screw; making sure that it is not cross threading. Complete tightening the screw until it is firmly seated.
Repeat steps 29 through 32 above for second slider.
Rotate the snowmobile track by hand and make sure that the rearmost end of the slider does not make contact with the track. If contact occurs, cut length slightly shorter.
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